Trip 2687 Tongariro National Park Rambles

4-6 February 2017

A weekend of a variety of walks for a variety of trampers so everyone from day walkers, overnighters and mountain climbers achieved their destinations depending on their fitness, skills and what they wanted to achieve over this relaxing long weekend.

Saturday: Meads Wall (Whakapapa) to Tama Lakes.

After driving to Iwikau Village, Whakapapa and spending the night at our lodge, 7 members of our group did a lovely day tramp on Saturday.  We went via Meads Wall into the head-waters of Whakapapanui  Stream.  With the intention of reaching the well-visited Tama Lakes, we had the luxury of traversing wonderful  un-tracked heathland, with stunted manuka , tussock grass and “vegetable sheep” the predominant vegetation. 

There were two stream crossings to negotiate en-route.  The second was a branch of Wairere Stream.  This was the first day of three with perfect weather.  A slight sou-westerly breeze helped to cool us down.  Shortly before reaching the main track, we had lunch and watched the hordes go by.  From this point on, we were part of the large numbers doing the Tama Lakes track and the Northern Circuit. 

We all went up to the Upper Tama Lake, where people from many countries gathered.  We even witnessed a nappy change for a one-year old being carried by her dad!  Everyone agreed that it was much nicer doing the more remote first part of the tramp as the well-formed track we finished on was much harder on the feet.

Leaders : Alan G and Selwyn J, with Magdalena  P , Sarah H, Helen M, Jocelyn W and Allan W (scribe). 

Sunday, Team A: Turoa Ski-field - Tahurangi (2797 metres) - Paretaitonga  Saddle -  Whakapapa Ski-field traverse

At 10.00 am, Magdalena and I were dropped off by Dianne at the Turoa Ski-field trail-head while Alan’s group came up for a look before embarking on their tramp via Mangaturuturu Valley, Whakapapaiti to Whakapapa.

It took us just over an hour to reach the top of the ski-field and a little later we donned crampons for the snow and ice climb to the summit.  The summit snowfield steepened and in some places the snow was quite hard, with icy patches.  By about 2500 metres, the decision was made to exit the snow and finish the climb to the summit via the wide rock rib between this point and Mangaehuehu Glacier.  We had been following a group of 4 other climbers who were climbing very slowly.  These four, from Auckland, had the essential crampons, but neglected to bring an ice-axe between them.  Not a good formula in the event of a slip, with no chance of self-arrest.  There were also two Russian climbers, who were down-climbing after spending the night out somewhere in the summit area. We overtook the group of four and reached the summit via two sections of narrow snow on the ridge, “topping out” at one o’clock. 

Allan W en route to Taharangi top, Photo: Magdalena Petrova

Also on the summit were two members of a Palmerston North climbing group.  They persuaded me not to attempt the down-climb to the saddle north of the summit, which would have given access to either the crater or the Shark’s Tooth ridge.  That meant the third option for us, which was the longer one of down-climbing and doing a high traverse via the old Mangaturuturu Shelter site, to Pare Saddle.  We spent about 20 minutes on the summit, taking in the wonderful views of the entire crater area. We later found out that Selwyn and Jocelyn had reached Dome Shelter on the other side of the crater, at exactly the same time.

Allan W overlooking Crater Lake,  Photo: Magdalena Petrova

After leaving the summit, we then had a four hour traverse to Pare’ Saddle.  During this time, we had to remove and put on our crampons several times.  Thankfully we found a stream and were able to replenish our dwindling water supplies. The last section to the saddle is a large snow-field, with lots of step-plugging in very hot conditions.  We finally reached the crater again at about 5.30 pm, with no-one around.  

Descent from Crater Lake, Photo: Magdalena Petrova

The descent from the crater, via freshly sulphur-covered snow, took another two hours.  At one stage, we noticed large numbers of what appeared to be seagull tracks in the snow.  They must have been attracted to insects on the snow and was possibly the small flock we had seen earlier.  Then I made a miscalculation in going too far west, following the enticing snow passage.  This meant some scrambling amongst several gullies and lots of rock-hopping.  It was a relief to reach our Lodge after a 10-hour and very hot day.  Magdalena P (our guest member from Bulgaria) and Allan W (scribe) had an amazing day doing this tiring but satisfying trip.

Team B: Turoa Mountain Road – Mangaturuturu Valley - Waterfall camp - Whakapapaiti Hut – Whakapapa.

After dropping off Allan and Magdalena at the ski-field trail-head, our group made our way on a beautiful day just after 10 o’clock, down into the Mangaturuturu Valley.  The walk down the silica waterfall led to the open valley and the jointly operated DoC and Wanganui Tramping Club hut.  There has been a new extension added, a porch, giving more liveable space.  From here we crossed the river and climbed up through the cliffs to Lake Surprise, where we had an extended lunch.  In all we would have passed about 10-12 other trampers.  This place is excellent for the panoramic view of the Ruapehu massif from Girdlestone in the south-east to Paretetaitonga in the north-west.

Sarah H at Lake Surprise, Photo: Alan Grant

About 4 kilometres along the track, we went about 1.5 kilometres up a tributary of the Makatote River, to our camp-site near a 28 metre waterfall  under Te Kohatu (1725 metres).  Behind this waterfall is a higher one of 55 metres.  Together they made for a wonderful view, with large cliffs towering behind.  This would have to be one of the best camp-sites ever!  Our camp-site was located at about 1450 metres.

Helen and Sarah at the Waterfall campsite, Photo: Alan Grant

We had a very mild night, after a lovely sunset, with many stars and a half moon.  All told it took us about 8.5 hours to get to our camp-site, including the lunch break. 

On Monday, the weather was again perfect as we made our way to Whakapapaiti Hut via the Round The Mountain Track.  We reached the hut about 12.15 and had lunch.  Then followed a nice bush walk of about 2 hours to reach the van at Whakapapa a little later than planned, at 3.30 pm. An excellent trip with Helen M and Sarah H (a new member from Belgium).  Scribe/leader Alan G.

Team C: To the top (Sunday)

Jocelyn and I made the most of a windless, fine day to walk up to the Dome. We took the most direct route from Waikato Hut, passing the Alpine Club hut and taking to Restful Ridge. There were still large snow drifts on the mountain but we stuck mainly to the rocks, apart from following another group who had cut steps up a steep section of snow. Lunch was had at Glacier Knob enjoying views to Lake Taupo and distant landmarks. After a rather precarious walk along a narrow ridge of gravel and snow we reached the Dome at 1.30 and were amazed at the clear views across to the Kawekas and Ruahines, and the colour of Crater lake. Allan and Magdalena told us by phone they could see us from Taharangi, across the lake. Back down the same route, more on the snow this time as it wasn't icy. Too late for the chairlift so it wasn't till 5.30 that we got back to the comforts of the Hut.  Selwyn

Monday: Silica rapids walk. Allan W and Magdalena P opted for a leisurely day after their marathon effort the day before so they moved the vehicle and allowed me to join Selwyn & Jocelyn on a walk down the Silica rapids to Whakapapa village. The day began with the usual cleanup of the Lodge and a quick cuppa. The walk across the almost flat area to the rapids was much quicker than the last time I did it – amazing what new knee joints can do! At the base of some steps we spotted 2 lonely orchid flowers – lovely purple thelymitra pulchella (sun orchid). The water was flowing as it normally does over the cream-coloured silica-lined river bed. Down through the shaded walkway but the mistletoe has already finished flowering, to our favourite spot on the mountain (apart from the Hut) – a lovely seat overlooking a bog and an unobstructed view of the whole mountain. Just Magnificent! From this seat it is a pleasant ½ hr walk to the village/bus. While waiting for Alan G’s team we found it necessary to frequent the Pihanga Café for an afternoon tea-break before returning to the bus to wait. Selwyn still had some energy left so he walked back to The Seat and met Alan’s team, none of whom would give him their pack to carry. Such dedication to the task. Scribe: Dianne.

Then began the leisurely drive home – a fabulous weekend being had by all.