16-20 February 2016

There were six of us eager to do this cycling along the Forgotten World Highway, said to be NZ’s oldest heritage trail, 155 kms from Taumarunui to Stratford over four saddles and plenty of other ups and downs. On Tuesday David and Sharon picked us up in their van with bike trailer. We drove to Taumarunui, ate our picnic lunch and then got on our bikes. The day was perfect for cycling - a bit of cloud, little wind, not too hot. We cycled along the highway through pretty countryside with farmhouses and folded hills and up and over Tunnel Hill which was a steady climb but not as steep as we had feared. We camped in the field at the Tokirima School and had access to the swimming pool (much appreciated), toilets and the admin area for drinking water and an electric jug. Last year the school was searching for a new principal without much success until a story in the Waikato Times attracted attention which resulted in a number of applicants. We met the new principal who has moved there from Matangi because she felt it was time for a new challenge. It’s a lovely little school with 15 pupils and a nice country feel.

The night was warm, the rain started around 5am but by the time we were ready to leave it had stopped. We had a look at the old Tokirima railway station just a short distance away, it’s now used as a place to store the converted golf carts that people hire to go along the railway, they looked like they would be good fun to ride. At this old railway station and at a number of places along the road there are very good information boards from time to time which we stopped to read. A highlight for the day was the Tangarakau Gorge - narrow, green, very pretty and steadily downhill through podocarp forest. We had lunch at a bridge near the grave of Joshua Morgan, the young man who surveyed the route through the gorge and who died of peritonitis at age 35. We continued down through the last bit of the gorge and through the Moki tunnel, short and lit well enough that we didn’t need lights. The road to the Bushlands campground came off the main road, narrow and gravel but easy to negotiate (just a bit muddy) and fortunately the campground had enough cabins available that we didn’t have to tent – the forecast was for a big wet overnight and so it turned out. The camp has a good kitchen and undercover tables so dinner was very comfortable.

It rained steadily all night but by the time we drove our bikes on the trailer back up to the main road (no one was keen to cycle up the gravel road back to the highway) the rain had eased so we cycled in dry conditions. The Tahora Saddle was not the challenge expected and on the side of the road we noticed huge slabs of baked papa, the rock which was used in the early days to crush and use as road metal. The ride down from the saddle and into Whangamomona had long gently undulating stretches, very pleasant riding and a nice approach to the Republic of Whangamomona. By the time we arrived the day was sunny so we could stroll around and really appreciate the setting of the village which sits perfectly to the sun. This small township declared itself a ‘Republic’ when it was proposed that it would be part of the Manawatu-Wanganui Region and they wanted to stay in the Taranaki Region!!  Most of the group tented in the campground with Don and Helen opting to stay in the lovely historic renovated pub where we all gathered for dinner that evening.

The night was dry until just before 8am, just in time to wet the tents of the campers! We waited out the morning rain in the pub by having more coffee and some chips then set off in a few spits of rain but it quickly cleared up so once again we cycled in dry conditions. The climb of the day was the Whangamomona Saddle, a manageable ascent through forest with a lovely long descent followed mostly by undulations and the Pokohura Saddle which was not very much of a saddle at all. Our target that day was Te Wera Lodge, set up mainly to accommodate groups and in fact full of a large school group as we arrived. The good news was that the group was just about to leave so we ate our lunch in the grounds while they organised themselves onto their buses and left. It’s interesting to note that if school groups are in residence here no one else is allowed to stay so the timing was very good for us. As it happened one of their communal lodges was available and just perfect for the six of us, very comfortable with its kitchen, several bedrooms and toilets and showers just next door.

It was a bit cooler overnight so very pleasant sleeping conditions and the morning was dry, actually our first completely dry morning. Good cycling conditions once again with sun and very little breeze, we cycled to Stratford over Strathmore Saddle, Douglas Saddle and another hill, all of which provided a bit of climbing and nice views. Just before Stratford we stopped at a charming cemetery with an excellent toilet, angels and an inspirational quote and then carried on to our accommodation at Stratford Heritage Lodge on Miranda Street. We had lunch in the town and then headed off to the Tawhiti museum in Hawera about 40 minutes away. This museum is a true labour of love, created by artist Nigel Ogle with enormous attention to detail and apparently widely acclaimed as the best private museum in the country. It certainly is comprehensive and impressive and contains a huge number of dioramas and displays. Back in Stratford we ate dinner at the local pub Malones and were then treated to a short ride in a couple of the converted golf carts. Carol and Dave Digby who run the Lodge are also the owners of the golf cart business, he knew we were interested so took us for a little spin. They do seem good fun and going through the 20 tunnels would be the trip of choice we think!

In summary, the Forgotten World Highway is an excellent cycle route, not much traffic, very pretty and interesting countryside, manageable hills. We were very fortunate that even though it rained almost every day we didn’t cycle in the rain on any day. Thanks to David and Sharon for the organisation and the vehicle and trailer. Participants: David and Sharon (trip leaders), Gina, David, Don and Helen (scribe). 

..... and the same trip but with A Railway Enthusiast’s Perspective

Cycling the Forgotten World Highway provided an opportunity to explore the Stratford- Okahukura Line (SOL).  Trains have not run on the SOL since 2009 but the line is used by Forgotten World Adventures to operate rail carts for adventure tourism. The attraction lies in aspects of beauty inherent in a railway line.  There is something strangely beautiful about a railway curve set into a rugged landscape.  The same could be said for a finely-proportioned horseshoe-shaped tunnel portal set into a deep, fern-clad cutting.

The second attraction relates to when the railway was part of the local community.  During the 1950’s there was a railway station, however small, not too far away for all farmers on a railway route.  The farmer could see his production go out from the local station and it was used for the delivery of mail, groceries and newspapers.  There was an intimacy between rural areas and their railway.

The joy of cycling is that it brings you into touch with the environment through the senses.  This includes being able to spot the furniture and fittings of the railway; cattle and sheep yards, platforms, ganger’s huts and disused telephone wires.  They all contribute to a sense of history and the enjoyment of a cycling trip.