An excellent trip report from various scribes from the different parties each with their own 'take' on the trip to make great reading.
Day 1: We walked up to Urchin, then travelled downhill to Waipakahi River, had a swim and lunch before heading uphill which went on for a rather long time. The stream was nice and cold and refreshing. Then through forest. It was very humid before heading to open hills up Thunderbolt and past Motutere to our first camping spot in tussock next to a stream that ran at the base of the hill. On the mountain tops there was thunder and thunder cloud but no rain thankfully. Once we camped we separated into site Remuera and the Tauranga retirement village (this was the early to bed people.). Also this site has a curse upon trowels, this is the second time I have camped there and the second time a trowel has been broken due to the shingle ground. This time Paul was the culprit but we think maybe John Grace caused the initial damage and stuck the parts back together again.
Day 2: This day was mainly walking over mountains, highest point 1650m, round cliff edges and through tussock type shrub. Heading south west around to Karikaringa (1694m), and Patutu. We had to take extra water due to the lack of ready access to water and being hot on the mountain tops. At the end we came to a stream and had a swim, the water was so clear and beautiful. Then we asked where was our camp spot. John Davies pointed up there. We had to walk uphill to a place that was next to a stream but on a cliff edge. Groan. Again we had to walk through tussock type shrub. It was a beautiful evening.
Day 3: We started bright and early beginning with a foggy day, turning into a bright sunny one. Less climbing today up the Needles where we bathed in the sunshine. It was Maggie’s birthday today, she was endowed with presents which she threw away (they were rocks!). We proceeded to the bush line, to spend the rest of the time bush bashing our way home down to the river and then climbing and bush bashing to the road. Only managed to lose the way a couple of times so all was good. John D (Leader), John G, Paul Q, Jo W, Dave and Debbie W, Maggie P, Mike P and Judith B (scribe).
“The Kaimanawa’s”
A word of warning here I tell, to those who like to tramp
To check your gear most carefully, before you leave your camp.
I quickly learned a lesson, of why its’ called a pack
You need to have a full set of straps, to keep it on your back.
We climbed atop of Urchin, then clambered down agin
To cross the Waipakihi River, and sneak in for a swim.
Then heading for old Thunderbolt, two hunters and their dog
Crossed our paths many times, in an amusing game of leapfrog.
First camp was just past Motutere, John D said water could be found
You just had to pause and listen, and hear it running underground.
Flat ground for tents a premium, the camp was spit in half
It was “Papakura or the Retirement Village”, you really had to laugh.
Day two was on “The Tops”, nothing grew a foot above the earth
We lost count the number of peaks we crossed, our legs pumping for all they were worth.
One spot when resting and lunching, tents spread about to dry
A swirling gust of wind grabbed one, and up it shot in to the sky.
Our camp that night was snug, Paul pitched above the creek
The sound of running water would have made my bladder leak.
But soundly did we sleep, and gladly may I say
We woke to wish our Maggie, a very happy birthday.
Day three we headed for home, with names of nom de plume
For heading over private land, false names we did assume.
We battled through the beech, bush lawyer not our friend
With many trees down on the track, was almost too much to contend.
But with only one more stream to cross, we stopped for one last swim
And John G showed his many talents, by boulder surfing with a grin.
We scrambled up the bank, in search of Waipakihi Road
Then sprawled ourselves upon the ground, to shed our heavy load.
Aahhhhhh! Dave W
Part 1
Arriving Friday at London Street there had been some confusion and rather than 1 big bus there were 2 smaller buses, but a solution was agreed; Fit Fellas in one bus and Moderate Nature Admirers in the second. We were fortunate in that the deluge didn't catch us, the storm water streaming down the road at Tokoroa had to be seen to be believed.
Arriving late at our campsite we made the wise decision to keep looking, deciding not to camp on a roadside or up against a substation. We pitched camp in pitch black and yet slept soundly through to breakfast.
The buses were parked at the foot of the Urchin Track and the Fit Fellas bounded up the steps before I had my backpack settled on my shoulders.
The climb was pretty constant and very beautiful in peaceful, cool beech forest. Eventually bursting out onto the tops was like walking under a hair dryer. Hats and sunblock applied we walked up and over, stopping for lunch where we could see over the range and the river below. The track down was quite rocky and would be easier coming up! Knee-jarring would be a good term.
Reunited with Alan and Lesley at the riverside (should they have been in the FF group?) we spent 30 minutes looking for a campsite to accommodate us all. Jacqui and I found a splendid River Heights section only to have a wave of disappointment from John and Jean convince us to move into the adjoining section with a shared access. Under a small group of celery pine we were good for the weekend and slept so well. Jacqui did the negotiating, she's good at that, although I haven't received my bottle of wine yet?! The rest of the group moved in to a River Flats Subdivision, the real estate was not as classy but the agent's details were convincing. We all washed, some swam, some attired, some not. It was very cold and wonderfully clear.
Sunday morning we woke refreshed and set about our second breakfast, savoury for us as we had cooked so much the night before. Crossing the river (no wet boots for this Frenchie) we tackled the track up toward Thunderbolt. Again beech forest, soft on the knees and cool under cover. Birdsong and a rifleman... (scribe: Amanda C)
Part 2
After having lunch with breathtaking views out over the Kaimanawas and Kawekas, we headed back the way we had come to our camp site. On the way we were treated to a spectacular storm in the distance with thunder and lightning. Luckily it didn't come our way as we were out on the tops at the time, discussing what we would do, particularly as we were all carrying metal walking poles which would make great conductors!
Most of us enjoyed a swim in the river before dinner which was very refreshing (aka freezing!). Then we cooked our dinners, compared dinners, and all had an early night. I haven't been to bed that early for ages! It was nice going to sleep to the sound of the river. The next morning dawned perfect - cloudless and still. Amanda (a new member from France) almost required trauma counselling when she realised the toilet facilities were ‘dig your own’!
We packed up and headed off down the Waipakahi River for half an hour, then up the steep climb to Urchin through beech forest. Here we were rewarded with stunning views across to Ruapehu, Ngaruahoe and Tongariro. I walked at the back as I felt the need to take a multitude of photos as it was so beautiful (and it also gave me an excuse to catch my breath as I wasn't as fit as I could have been and it was very hot!).
The alpine flowers were out which were lovely to see. Descending through beech forest provided a real contrast to walking out on the tops and gave the trip good variety. I couldn't get over how vivid the greens were of the different varieties of moss in the bush. It was my first trip trying out a walking pole (which was a very special one being Paul McLennan’s pole). We reminisced about trips we had been on with him and agreed that one of his favourite words was ‘awesome’, which summed up the weekend.
Thanks to John Wilson for leading such a great trip. It was my first time to the Kaimanawas and is a spectacular part of New Zealand. I felt very privileged to have had the opportunity to be there.
Trip participants: John and Jean W, Alan W, Lesley K, Dawn A, Selwyn J, Fiona G, Amanda C, Jacqui D (scribe), and Paul’s Pole.
The Fit Trip
The trip began with a Friday night bus drive via Rotorua, from where we picked up Peter McKellar and snatched a quick bite to eat, to the DoC camping ground by the Ogilvie Bridge over the Tauranga River. This is a deluxe camping site with running tap water, flush toilets et cetera and a very friendly DoC man who gave us useful advice before we started off in the morning.
Saturday morning dawned perfectly, no clouds, no wind, so it was with high spirits that we, on cue, at 8.00am trudged up and over the Te Pona a Pita Track. John and Jean Wilson accompanied us to the crest from where they continued on their trip further up the ridge, whilst we descended to the Waiiti Stream. By now the sun was well up and lots of beautiful vistas opened out across the valley of sun golden-green bush ridges, topped by a pure blue sky. Very, very beautiful. This idyllic setting was however shortly disturbed by a wasp attack, those at the back in particular receiving lots of stings. A short panic run got us past the nest, but a few people were still licking their wounds even after we had come out on Monday.
The Waiiti Stream at the bottom is an easy stream to negotiate and very pretty in the sun with the moving water sparkling, some fantastic pools. It was, at this time of the year, mostly very shallow and quite wide, very easy travelling. We made our way upstream slowly, savouring every minute. Eventually we reached the confluence with the Kaharoa and Whakapirau Streams where, according to the map, there had once been a large pa site. We could see no evidence of this, only a bush covered hill where it probably was. We had our lunch there in a clearing a few metres up the Kaharoa Stream by an empty but obviously well used hunters’ bivvy.
As we progressed up the Kaharoa we were more and more able to avail ourselves of side‑tracks, cutting off corners and even following beside straight sections of stream. As a result we rollicked along and were at the Te U bivouac by mid afternoon. Of interest to those who saw it, on this stretch was a very large and very black eel lurking in a pool. It was a beauty! Finding the bivvy was a bit tedious as tracks seemed to lead everywhere, eventually however, after a bit of a scramble, we struck gold on top of a small plateau between the Kaharoa and an un-named side stream. The bivvy is in reality a typical DoC four bunk hut. Most of us elected to camp outside, where there was plenty of space, because of the heat in the hut, but used the hut for cooking and the large veranda for gossiping and yarning into the evening.
Next day (Sunday) we made a late start (9am) as the distance to be travelled was short and again there were lots of tracks beside the stream which only had to be crossed occasionally. We were climbing as we went and then eventually had to leave the Kaharoa completely and cross over via a real climb up a ridge and over point 553 and down into the Waiotahi Stream. Again more side-tracks! By lunchtime we were nearly at our destination for the day so stopped short in a lovely shady spot where we lounged and talked. Shortly after this we reached Bob’s bivvy which is situated at the confluence of the Waiotahi and the Paititutu Steam. Most people headed straight to a pool for a swim. It is hard to describe how good that was. The bivvy is a makeshift hunters’ bivvy in a large clearing. There were three hunters there so we all tented. Another convivial and pleasant evening.
Monday morning and another fine hot day. We started even later (9.30am). Moving downstream, more tracks and easy going. Eventually we came onto farm land and found a huge pool where we lounged, swam and had lunch before moving on down, partially through a pine forest, to the road end. Here we waited for Dianne and the bus for approximately an hour. The only excitement being a chase after Chris’ tumbling tent caught in a gust of breeze. He had put it up to dry from last evening’s dew!
All in all a great, very relaxing trip through picture postcard scenery and perfect summer weather. The lucky participants were: Alan Wilson, Peter Burgess, Paul Quinn, Stephen Prendergast, Lesley Kuggeleijn, John Grace, Peter McKellar, Thomas Johnson, John McArthur, Chris Kay, Sue Kay.
Te Urewera alternative, Anniversary Weekend
The full story is a bit lengthy, but the outcome was that Jean and I (John) did our own trip instead of going with Alan Wilson to Te U. A man with DoC associations at the camp by Ogilvies Bridge in the Waimana Valley told us of a track along Ogilvies Ridge we could take as an alternative to starting further up the road. We set off up Te Pona A Pita Track with Alan's group, but left them at the ridge top and found the walk along the Ogilvies Ridge, following a trap line, an absolute delight - beautiful bush with a couple of distant kokako calls for sound effects.
We joined the main track and, after a lunch stop, wended our way along to where the track down into Waiiti Stream turned off. We were soon at the stream and were so hot and sweaty that we immediately bathed in a shallow pool to cool off. About 15 minutes down the valley we came to Koaunui Hut, an 18 bunker. A couple of hunters joined us later on.
Sunday was the day for a climb up a track shown on the map to Kaharoa at 1030 metres. The hut is at about 250 metres so we had a reasonable climb ahead. This area is part of the Te Urewera Mainland Island with lots of predator control and once we had located the track (nothing to show you where it started) we found that it doubled as a trap line. The going was good, although the temperature was pretty warm. A local high point at 729 metres was the end of the trap line and the track beyond was very overgrown and difficult to follow.
The conversation mainly consisted of, "Where's another marker?" and "There's a marker!" as we clambered through king fern and over windfalls. I sustained a lot of scratches and scrapes as we progressed. We reached a high point near the top and several peaks could be discerned through the thick forest out to the right ahead. Jean spotted a communications mast on one of them, so we knew that must be Kaharoa. We had some lunch and, re-energised, followed markers and orange dazzle spots, sidling past two or three knobs until we stood on the very top, on which was a helicopter pad adjacent to the mast. There were wide views and farmland in the Koranga Valley, a tributary of the Waioeka, seemed surprisingly near. Higher ridges hid Panekiri and Maungapohatu to the south.
Our fixation on finding markers intensified on our way back as it would have been very, very easy to go down a wrong spur and find ourselves in the upper reaches of some stream and an awfully long way from Koaunui Hut. We kept on course and thankfully arrived back at the hut 8 1/2 hours after leaving. We were soon bathing our weary bodies in the stream.
We retraced our steps on our way out on Monday but turned off the main ridge and took a shorter track which brought us out to the Lions Hut, where Dianne and Selwyn were waiting for us. Scribe: John Wilson
& lastly.....
The Base camp alternative
We began the day by at least joining all the trampers for breakfast after spending a night in our brandnew tall tent. One of the other campers at the site commented later in the day that they were impressed at how quiet we all were when we arrived at the Ogilvies bridge site. Score one for brownie points there!
Once everyone had gone their separate ways and we had relaxed until morning tea-time, we decided to follow the herd up the Te Pona a Pita track too but in a much more relaxed fashion – well actually, at a pace I knew I could manage for a wee while. We stopped to admire the view several times, make a close inspection of a possum hanging in a trap in a tree, watch the pigeon watching us, chat with a robin or 2 along the way, and, as we usually do, just botanise. A lovely fine day was leaving a lovely dappled light on the easy track. As we weren’t carrying any lunch we stopped to sit awhile on a strategically placed seat and listen to the sounds of the bush before heading back to camp. There is a wonderful swimming hole adjacent to the camping area so we had to make use of it. It wasn’t until we had scrambled down the steep path that we found the easy track to it.
I had a brief chat with the DoC associate mentioned above and after he mentioned that he was intending to drive further to the 8acre camping area I cheekily asked to hitch a ride. This would give me a good idea of how good the road would be for our 23-seater bus. We headed off later in the afternoon along a road in good condition and quite suitable for the bus but chose to remain at our original campsite and drive partway down on Monday to meet John & Jean.
Tuis sang and flitted around often but I was hoping to hear the sound of kaka as the sun went down but no – the long-tailed cuckoos called all day and all night. An occasional morepork could be heard too.
Sunday morning was again a leisurely start. We opted for a walk along a track on the true right of the Tauranga(!) river which is the all weather track for people needing to get to the road but unable be to cross the river from the Onepu hut track. This is a picturesque walk suitable for anyone and we were able to return to the campsite by walking down the river. A few other campers were also enjoying the environment here too.
That night we were invited to join the ‘DoC’ household and friends for a meal but as we had already eaten we just enjoyed their company for a couple of hours.
Monday morning saw a leisurely start again and a drive down the road to the Lions camp site. We parked the bus in the shade and headed into the bush on the opposite side of the road from the buildings to enjoy an easy walk in the bush. Midway the track crosses the road to the river side but up above the river, and came back to the bus. Barely had we begun getting our lunch ready when Jean & John arrived. With full tummies we turned the bus around and headed out to the highway, turned right and then right again to meet the rest of our passengers before heading home. Ogilivies Bridge campsite would be a fabulous place for a family trip as there are some beautiful and easy walks as well as lovely swimming holes. Participants: Selwyn and Dianne June (driver & scribe)